Ever feel baffled in the land of fragrances with terms like "top notes," "heart notes," or "musk" being tossed around? A Nose for Notes is your how-to handbook for deciphering fragrance terminology by French Fragrance. From the basics of scent layering to the most commonplace (and unorthodox) ingredients used in perfumes, this glossary-entry article will make you proficient in the study of scent.

This guide is here to make it easy. Whether you're a beginner wanting to experiment with new scents or you're just curious about what's actually in that bottle of your favorite perfume, this article makes everything easy to understand in clear terms. We'll walk you through a fragrance's composition, explain how top, middle, and base notes come together after a while, and introduce you to some of the most common ingredients used in perfumes today.

Top Notes (Opening Notes)

Citrus:

The majority of citrus scents used in perfumery are derived from citrus fruit skin through specialized extraction techniques. Others are synthetically produced in order to recreate or boost the fragrance, especially when the natural material is unstable or too expensive.

Bergamot: Cold-pressed from the rind of bergamot oranges (a hybrid of bitter orange and lemon)

Lemon: Cold-pressed from the lemon peel

Sweet Orange: Cold-pressed from the peel of ripe oranges (Citrus sinensis)

Bitter Orange Derivatives: Steam-distilled from the blossoms of the bitter orange tree

Grapefruit: Cold-pressed from the peel

Lime: Can be cold-pressed or steam-distilled from the peel

Yuzu: Steam-distilled from the peel or extracted as essential oil

Mandarin Orange: Cold-pressed from the peel

Herbs:

Herbal notes are typically derived from various plant parts, such as leaves, stems, flowers, and sometimes roots. Herbal notes are typically fresh, green, and sometimes peppery, spicy, or aromatic. Following is a more detailed explanation of how each herbal note is derived:

Lavender: Steam distillation of the flowers of lavender plant

Rosemary: Steam distillation of the leaves of the rosemary plant

Basil: Steam distillation of the leaves of the basil plant

Mint (Peppermint/Spearmint): Steam distillation or cold-press extraction of the leaves of the mint plant

Sage: Steam distillation of the leaves of the sage plant

Thyme: Steam distillation of the leaves and flowers of the thyme plant

Tarragon: Steam distillation or cold pressing of the leaves of the tarragon plant

Light Fruits:

Fruity light notes in perfumes are typically associated with light, juicy, and vibrant perfumes that create a refreshing and invigorating atmosphere. Light fruit notes are typically derived from the rind or pulp of fruits and can be used as top or middle notes in perfumes. The following is a summary of some typical light fruit notes and their origins:

Apple: The pulp and rind of apples, specifically varieties like green apple (Granny Smith) or red apple

Pear: Typically synthetic replication though pear essential oil can be obtained through distillation

Peach: The pulp of ripe peaches

Apricot: The pulp of apricots

Citrus Fruits (Mandarin, Tangerine): The rind of mandarins, tangerines, and other citrus fruits

Melon (Cantaloupe, Honeydew): Synthetically produced or through CO2 extraction of the pulp melons

Pineapple: Synthetically produced from the pulp of pineapples due to the unstable nature of the natural fruit oil

Kiwi: Synthetic or by distilling the pulp of kiwis

Heart Notes (Middle Notes)

Florals

Florals are the most versatile and well-liked family of notes in perfumery. They are the core of many fragrances, adding a soft, romantic, and timeless character. Floral notes are obtained from the flowers of plants and range from fresh and light to intense and deep. What follows is a rundown of popular floral notes and their origin:

Rose: Steam distillation or solvent extraction of the petals of the rose flower

Jasmine: Solvent extraction or enfleurage of the delicate blossoms of the jasmine plant

Lily of the Valley: The tiny white flowers of the lily of the valley plant

Tuberose: Solvent extraction or enfleurage of the white, waxy flowers of the tuberose plant

Ylang-Ylang: Steam distillation of the flowers of the ylang-ylang tree (Cananga odorata)

Chamomile: Steam distillation of the flowers of the chamomile plant

Neroli: Steam distillation of the blossoms of the bitter orange tree

Spices

Perfumery spices are used to add warmth, depth, and complexity to a fragrance. These notes evoke a sense of luxury, exoticism, and mystery and have a tendency to create a warm or dramatic atmosphere. Spicy notes can be warm and sweet or piercing and hot, and they're generally found in the heart or the base of perfumes, where they add longevity and character.

Cinnamon: Steam distillation or solvent extraction of the bark of the cinnamon tree

Clove: Steam distillation or solvent extraction of the dried flower buds of the clove tree

Pepper (Black Pepper, Pink Pepper): Steam distillation (for black pepper) or solvent extraction (for pink pepper)

Ginger: Steam distillation of the rhizome (root) of the ginger plant (Zingiber officinale)

Cardamom: Steam distillation of the seeds of the cardamom pod (Elettaria cardamomum)

Nutmeg: Steam distillation of the seeds of the nutmeg tree (Myristica fragrans)

Saffron: Solvent extraction or infusion of the dried stigma of the saffron crocus flower (Crocus sativus)

Green Notes

Green perfumery notes remember the fresh, crisp, and leafy fragrance of nature—like cut grass, crushed foliage, dew-strewn stems, and spring gardens. Green notes are bright, fresh, and occasionally sharp, used to introduce brightness, lift, and a natural outdoor personality to a scent. Green notes typically take place in the top or heart accords of perfumes.

Galbanum: Steam distillation of the resin from the galbanum plant (Ferula gummosa)

Green Tea: Leaves of the Camellia sinensis plant

Violet Leaf: Solvent extraction of the leaves of the violet plant (Viola odorata)

Tomato Leaf: Typically synthetically recreated from the leaves and stems of tomato plants

Grass (Fresh-cut Grass): Natural grass or synthetics like cis-3-hexenol

Fig Leaf: Solvent extraction or synthetic recreations from the leaves of the fig tree

Ivy Leaf: Ivy plant leaves (Hedera helix)

Bamboo: Often synthetic due to the difficulty in extracting the aroma

Basil: Steam distillation of the leaves of the basil herb

Base Notes (Dry-Down Notes)

Woods

Woody notes are the backbone of most fragrances—especially at the base of a fragrance—providing depth, warmth, and longevity. They are earthy, rich, and comforting, evoking forests, dry bark, or smoky fireplaces. They can be dry and earthy or creamy and smooth, and they seem to mix beautifully with florals, spices, or citrus.

Sandalwood: Steam distillation of heartwood of the sandalwood tree

Cedarwood: Steam distillation of the wood shavings

Vetiver: Steam distillation of the dried roots

Patchouli: Steam distillation of fermented leaves of the patchouli plant (Pogostemon cablin)

Guaiac Wood: Steam distillation of wood of the guaiac tree (Bulnesia sarmientoi)

Oud (Agarwood): Distillation of the resin-rich wood

Amyris: Steam distillation of the wood of Amyris balsamifera (also called West Indian sandalwood)

Cypress: Needles and twigs of the cypress tree (Cupressus sempervirens)

Cashmere Wood (Synthetic): Synthetic molecule inspired by soft woods

Iso E Super (Synthetic): Synthetic molecule created in the lab

Resins

Perfumery resins are plant- and tree-based, thick, syrupy liquids—often used to create dense, warm, and tenacious base notes. They possess a sweet, balsamic, smoky, or amber fragrance and have been utilized in incense, ritual ceremonies, and perfumery for centuries.

Frankincense (Olibanum): Resin from the Boswellia tree (Boswellia sacra, Boswellia carterii)

Myrrh: Steam distillation of the dried resin from the Commiphora tree

Benzoin: Solvent extraction into a resinous absolute

Labdanum: Solvent extraction or collection from leaves and twigs of the rockrose shrub
Opoponax (Sweet Myrrh): Resin from the Commiphora erythraea tree

Elemi: Resin from the Canarium luzonicum tree

Galbanum: Resin from the Ferula plant

Peru Balsam: Tapping or collection of resin from the Myroxylon tree (native to Central America)

Tolu Balsam: Resin from the Myroxylon balsamum tree

Gourmand Elements

Gourmand scents in perfumery are all about luxury—they smell delicious enough to eat! The notes are drawn from sweet treats such as vanilla, chocolate, caramel, coffee, almond, and sweets. Sweet, creamy, or nutty, gourmand scents are warm, comforting, and irresistibly mouthwatering, and so popular for chilly weather or nights out on the town.

Vanilla: Cured pods of the vanilla orchid (Vanilla planifolia)

Caramel: Synthetic recreation

Chocolate/Cocoa: Cocoa beans or synthetic substitutes

Coffee: Roasted coffee beans or synthetic recreations

Almond: Bitter almonds or tonka beans (synthetically derived for safety)

Tonka Bean: Seeds of the Dipteryx odorata tree

Honey: Natural or synthetic versions

Praline: Synthetic, inspired by caramelized nuts
Milk/Cream/Butter: Synthetic milky molecules

Cotton Candy (Ethyl Maltol): Synthetic compound